NOB HILL. Elegant and subdued, this intimate restaurant (whose name means "watercolor") exhibits artistry in both cuisine and appearance. Its serene ambience and its vaulted, beamed ceiling evoke Acquerello's former incarnation as a chapel. Contemporary Italian dishes are the main draw, though, and a frequently-changing menu features dishes like parsley-encrusted pork loin, beef carpaccio with hearts of palm and black truffles, and tuna in fennel-dill crust with saffron sauce. The wine list features fine Italian and California vintages.

NORTH BEACH. Owner Bruno Viscovi generously shares his authentic Istrian cuisine with local diners, exposing them to the culinary hybrid of Italian and Eastern Europe fare. The menu offers a unique blend of dishes, including fried potato gnocchi, chifeleti (deep-fried croquettes), and homemade pastas and desserts. Friendly service punctuates the terrific food, and the warm, comfortable place proves appealing to all.

RUSSIAN HILL. A great place to get together with friends and catch sight of folks in the political arena, intimate Allegro also promises lovely views and terrific Italian food. The elegant ambience is enhanced by subtle lighting, and patrons feel completely at ease as they tuck into wonderful pastas, rack of lamb, much-favored gnocchi, and a variety of hearty meat entrees. Service is friendly and accommodating.

RUSSIAN HILL. This comfortable neighborhood Italian restaurant offers a simple menu that will have your taste buds singing. Although selections change frequently, make a point to try any of the house-made pastas, studded with savory ingredients and dressed with terrific sauces. Seafood and meat entrees are also treated to rich, earthy flavors. The wine list promises excellent, affordable options, and delectable desserts range from chocolate mousse to tiramisu.

NORTH BEACH. Locals and well-informed travelers largely populate this restaurant, which occupies a below-street space in a former bakery building. Tuscan cuisine is the standard, especially pastas, and are part of the reason Buca Giovanni has been a favorite in the area for decades. Other options include rabbit with polenta, veal, seafood, and salads. Servings are generous and you'll likely spot many promising couples on dates in the cozy dining room.